तिगड़ीTigadi

Tigadi strategy

The diagonals change which squares are worth having, and the absence of flying changes what a lead is worth. Both make Tigadi play differently from morris as usually described — here is what actually wins games.

Take the corners

On a morris board without diagonals every point sits on exactly two lines, so no point is inherently better than another. Adding the four corner diagonals breaks that symmetry.

A corner point lies on three of the 20 lines. A side midpoint lies on two. Summed across the board that is 60 line-memberships over 24 points — and the corners hold a disproportionate share of them.

A piece on a corner is therefore working on three possible tigadis at once, and denying your opponent three. In the placing phase this is the clearest guide you have: when two placements look equally good, take the corner. It is the opposite of the standard game, where all points are equal and the usual advice is to fight for the middle ring.

The middle ring still matters, but for a different reason: middle-ring points have four neighbours where outer and inner points have three, so pieces there can move more freely later.

Build a running tigadi, not a static one

A completed tigadi captures once. A tigadi you can open and close repeatedly captures every time it closes, and that is how games are actually won.

The shape to aim for: three of your pieces on a line, plus an empty point adjacent to one of them that is not on any of your opponent’s threats. Step out, step back, capture. Step out, step back, capture again. Your opponent must either block the empty point — costing them a piece elsewhere — or watch you dismantle them one goti per turn.

Two intersecting lines that share a piece are better still. Move the shared piece between them and each arrival completes a different tigadi, so there is no single point your opponent can block to stop it.

The placing phase decides more than it looks

A tigadi formed while placing captures immediately, so the first eighteen turns are not a warm-up. Priorities, roughly in order:

  1. Complete a tigadi if you can. A piece in hand is worth less than a piece the opponent no longer has.
  2. Block a tigadi your opponent is one move from completing.
  3. Take a corner, for the three lines it sits on.
  4. Create two threats at once — an open pair on two different lines, so blocking one leaves the other.
  5. Avoid clustering. Pieces heaped in one region contest few lines and get blocked as a group.

Watch the diagonals specifically. Players who know standard morris consistently miss diagonal threats, because on the board they learned on those lines do not exist. It is the most reliable way to catch out a strong opponent playing this variant for the first time.

Mobility, and why the endgame is real

Because no piece ever gains the ability to jump, a piece with nowhere to go is genuinely stuck for as long as its neighbours stay occupied. Mobility is not a soft consideration here — it is a hard constraint that lasts to the final move.

Two things follow. First, blocking works: hemming in your opponent’s pieces reduces the moves they can make, and a player with only bad moves available must still make one — often breaking their own tigadi to do it. Second, being down on material is not automatically lost, because a compact, mobile position with three pieces can hold out against a scattered five.

This is where the standard game and Tigadi diverge most sharply. With flying, a player reduced to three pieces can answer threats from anywhere and the game drifts to a draw. Without it, the player who has been quietly restricting their opponent’s options simply converts.

How the computer opponent thinks

The AI on this site scores positions with a handful of weighted terms, and they are a fair summary of what to pay attention to — material first by a wide margin, then completed tigadis, then lines where you hold two of three points, then corners, then mobility.

Material dominating is not laziness: on a 24-point board, being a piece up compounds. It means one thing above all — do not trade a capture away for position unless the position gives the piece straight back.

Common questions

Should I place on corners or on the middle ring first?

Corners, on this board. A corner sits on three of the 20 lines while a side midpoint sits on two, so corners do more work both for you and against your opponent. Middle-ring points are the better squares for mobility later, since they have four neighbours rather than three.

Is it worth breaking my own tigadi to capture?

Usually yes, if you can re-form it. That is the whole idea of a running tigadi: the line is worth more as a repeatable capture than as a static formation. Breaking it with no way back is what to avoid.

How do I play against someone who knows nine men’s morris?

Play the diagonals. Strong morris players scan the rings and spokes automatically and simply do not see diagonal threats, because those lines are absent from the board they learned. Corner-to-corner tigadis catch them repeatedly.

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